Friday, December 25, 2009

Have a Bubbly New Year

I have a pet theory about why Americans don't drink enough bubbly (bear with me).

My guess is that the typical American's first exposure to sparkling wine is a $4 bottle of lukewarm Cook's in paper cups on New Year's Eve somewhere between the ages of 18 and 20. At least, that was my experience. It was like taking a huge swallow of warm, carbonated swill.

As a result, for the next ten years I made two assumptions:
  1. Champagne is terrible.
  2. Good Champagne, if it exists, must be unreasonably expensive.
Both are common assumptions, I think. Both are also false. There is a good, reasonably-priced sparkling wine out there that, with a modicum of effort, may be enjoyed by you on this New Year's Eve.

But first, a word of caution.

At each New Year's party there is always the guy that says, "I'll bring the Champagne!" and he trots in around 11 with a bottle of warm Andre or Korbel because it was the cheapest thing he could find on the bottom shelf and he suggests everyone drink it out of coffee mugs.

Don't be that guy.

I can help you. Actually, a lot of people can help you, but you're here. These three tips will ensure a lovely, bubbly New Year.

Know Thy Bubbly
Here are the basics: actual Champagne is only produced in the Champagne region of France. Anything else bubbly is called sparkling wine. There is a lot of great sparkling wine out there, so don't feel that you have to pay extra for champagne just to get a good bottle.

Most champagne is dry or "brut." There is extra brut, which is even dryer, and there are also sweeter types including extra dry, sec, demi-sec, doux, and dolce. If you've never had wine before, consider starting with something extra dry.

Don't Buy the Cheapest Thing in the Liquor Store, Scrooge
Don't you even think about touching that bottom shelf. Trust me, that $5 bottle of Andre is a bad idea.

There are a number of sparkling wines starting in the $10 - $20 bracket that range from decent (Freixenet, Poema) to good (Domaine Chandon).

The New York Times suggests a starting range of $30 - $40 for decent Champagne.

For what it's worth, I've never had sparkler under $10 that was worth a damn, but I've had great luck with bottles $15 and up.

Do it Like You Mean it
  • Buy your bottle ahead of time. If it's warm you'll need to chill it at least three hours. Do not serve warm Champagne. If you need to chill it quickly use an ice bucket.
  • Get flutes. I'm not big on stocking a lot of different types of wine glasses, but I do think flutes are necessary hardware. I don't mean fine crystal, either. You can get a four-pack of glass flutes for $10 at Target and if they get broken it's no loss. The shape of the flute will help retain the champagne's fizz and will direct the bubbles and aroma towards your nose.
  • Do not shake the bottle. Contrary to what Hollywood would have us believe, Champagne is not meant to be a weapon. You don't want half of it to end up on the floor (or the cork to shoot someone's eye out). If the bottle is settled, hold a rag over the cork and slowly unscrew it. There will be a small pop and a whiff of mist, but you shouldn't lose a drop.
To those who have never picked out a bottle of Champagne, the sparkling wine shelf at the liquor store can be daunting. I think the key to trying new wine (any kind, not just sparkling) is to focus on grape varieties in particular regions rather than specific brands and vintages.

I became interested in sparkling wine after listening to an interview on NPR's Fresh Air with the columnists for the Wall Street Journal's Tastings. I took up their advice (sparking wine is good for any occasion, try mid-range bottles that have "cava" on the label) and have had a great time exploring a variety of different kinds.

My advice would be focus on wines in the $15-$20 range. If you have never had wine before, or prefer a milder wine, try Prosecco. Otherwise, look for something from Cava or, if you want something a little sweet, try something from Asti.

Riverside Wine and Spirits has a large selection of Champagnes and sparkling wines overall, but I've found that Red Bank Wine and Spirits carries a lot of really great sparklers in my price range, including a healthy number of Cava and Prosecco. The staff are very knowledgeable and can answer any questions you might have and will steer you towards bottles based on your preferences.

Though everything I've recommended so far is European, one of the best sparkling wines I've tried recently was a Domaine Chandon Brut Classic from California. It was very full and crisp with a nice finish and it's one of my main contenders for this year's festivities.

Cheers, Noogans, and have a safe New Year.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Flavors of Italy

Flavors of Italy
10330 Dayton Pike
Soddy Daisy, TN‎
(423) 451-7298‎

Mom & Pop restaurant reviews are some of the hardest to write. Most of these restaurants are staffed by the owners. They are usually incredibly nice people that work very, very hard and, in a world of ever-burgeoning chain restaurants and fast food joints, they fight an uphill battle. I don’t like to add to that battle by writing negative reviews of these places, but in the end it's all about the food. No matter how nice you are, or how attractive your decor is, you have to serve me good food.

I do try to couch the Ma and Pa reviews fairly in terms of what they are--comfort food shouldn’t be compared to gourmet dining. But there is certainly a clear distinction between food that is worth paying for and food that isn't.

I've eaten at Flavors of Italy twice now and the food is pretty mediocre. It isn’t completely terrible, but I think calling it mediocre is probably the greatest compliment I can give.

Sadly, you couldn't find a quainter family Italian place. Flavors of Italy is clearly a labor of love. It's housed in a small, homey cottage with wood floors and a lot of charm. The interior is a cheery rustic red and tables are arranged in cozy intimacy. Italian music plays in the background and paper place mats detailing Italy adorn the tables. The staff is incredibly courteous and friendly. The environment is excellent for family dining.

The menu features a variety of Italian fare. Appetizers average $9 and include fried mushrooms, mozzarella sticks, and bruschetta. Salads are $6 - $9, daily soups and chef's specials are available. Most pastas and meat dishes average $11, with seafood running slightly higher. American favorites are accounted for (Primavera, meatballs, Alfredo, Bolognese) along with a few dishes you don't see as often locally, such as Shrimp Fra Diavolo and Chicken Vesuvio.

Our meal got off to a rocky start. We were served burnt rolls, apparently with our server's knowledge, and they were not replaced until we asked. I wasn’t sure what to make of this but, as far as service is concerned, it was the only blip we encountered.

The Fresh Stuffed Mushrooms Italian style tasted strongly of Krab and was over-spiced with some Italian blend. I will offer a bit of advice here: if you don’t use real crab, please say so. Better yet, use real crab and jack the price up. I feel comfortable speaking for the people of Earth when I say nobody wants Krab.

The lasagna consisted chiefly of overcooked noodles; a heavy, somewhat bland meat sauce; and cheese. It was the equivalent of hamburger helper. I half-expected there to be a sprinkle of dry, powdered Parmesan on top. This was an unpleasant surprise because the lasagna at Flavors of Italy was recommended to me by several people. It's possible I got a bad batch, but regardless, it was one of the worst things I've eaten this year. Just to make sure, I offered some to my companions, who confirmed it was, "disgusting." (Their word.)

The gnocchi in vodka sauce was very decent. The gnocchi is advertised as homemade, so I will take them at their word, but it did remind me of the vacuum-packed variety found on grocery story shelves. It had that heavier, chewier quality. Most of the homemade gnocchi I've tried, including my own, has a lighter texture.

At this point, I suggested we split one dessert, which proved to be a wise choice. The cannoli we ordered was overcooked and very crispy. The shell took some force to break. The filling was sweet and cool and the raspberry drizzle was a nice touch, but the overall dessert left something to be desired.

I can't recommend Flavors of Italy. I know people who like it, and I originally chose to visit based on the recommendations of others, but I wouldn't go back. It's a fair family Italian restaurant. If you aren't as concerned about the food and you want a quiet, intimate family dining experience, Flavors of Italy might be right for you. Provino's has better food, but the atmosphere is more impersonal and the service is inferior.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Snow Alert

There is snow on the ground.

Don't panic.

If you're smart, you were one of the people who ransacked Bi-Lo last night for basic survival necessities (milk, bread, beer). You have already panicked and have no reason to panic further. Your family has been saved.

If you weren't one of the thousands glutting our local groceries in a wave of flurry-driven frenzy you are now at a survival disadvantage. You have no milk or bread. But you do have one thing: snow. Here are a few recipes to help you weather the crisis.

Snow Cereal
You don't have any milk, obviously. Pour a bowl of your favorite cereal. Add a handful of snow on top. Wait for it to melt.

Snow Sandwiches
If you have bread, add a handful of snow between two slices. If you don't have bread, form snow into a rectangle on each plate. Weep despairingly in front of your children.

Snow Shake
Blend 1 cup water, 1 cup snow, and 1 cup sugar. Garnish with leaves you foraged in your yard.

Snow Hot Dog
Add snow to saucepan. Melt. Add hot dog. Boil until done.

Snow Spam
You may not have milk, and you may not have bread, but I bet you have spam! Heat a frying pan on medium-low. Slice and add spam. Brown, then plate and top with snow.

On the more palatable side of things, I found two recipes that utilize snow. Snow Cream is a popular one with many variations, but there is also a type of Maple Candy that is made by using snow to harden maple syrup. After your kids track footprints all over the yard and come back drenched and rosy-cheeked a bit of snow cream or maple candy might be the perfect accompaniment to a hot mug of cocoa.